Green Shoots Blog
This all-in-one underlayment is designed for moisture and vapor protection for all subfloors and floor types. The do-it-all, non-toxic sheet also achieves better overall noise reduction. Cali Complete thermal insulation makes floors warmer and more comfortable. Interlocking edges and a fan-fold design mean simple installations for homeowners and pros alike. And as an added plus for the planet, Cali Complete is 100% recyclable. Pair with Metallized Seaming Tape to ensure a full moisture barrier, even over concrete.
1.5mm | 100sqft/box Request a Sample
FEATURES
MOISTURE & VAPOR BARRIER
Complete subfloor moisture and vapor protection for all floor types.
QUIET STEP
Complete noise reduction in room and impact sound insulation.
THERMAL COMFORT
Complete thermal insulation makes floors warmer and more comfortable.
EASY DIY INSTALL
Complete fan fold design and interlocking edges make install simple for the homeowner and pro.
PERFORMANCE
TEST
- IIC
- STC
- DELTA
- R-Value
- Transmission
- Moisture Content Values
BAMBOO/EUCALYPTUS
- 67/65
- 63/62
- X
- 6.6/inch
- 0.00/24h1000sf
- 12lbs/24h/1000sf or 12% MC
CORK
- 68
- 62
- X
- 6.6/inch
- 0.00/24h/1000sf
- 12lbs/24h/1000sf or 12% MC
VINYL
- 72
- 66
- 22
- 6.6/inch
- 0.00/24h/1000sf
- 12lbs/24h/1000sf or 12% MC
Test performed on 6″ slab with drop ceiling.
STC/IIC testing performed for Cali Complete + Vinyl flooring on a plain slab yielded IIC 54; STC50.
I am putting the Cali longboard on a wood subfloor (new construction). What underlayment is recommended.
Hi David,
I believe the longboard product already has a thin pad and since your subfloor is plywood, you don’t need anything else. If you wanted to add additional insulation and comfort I would put down Cali Complete.
Do you guys sell a thicker underlay? Or maybe can I put two layers down? I was really looking for something that is around 3mm in thickness. Please let me know. I am thinking of installing one of the GeoWood products.
Hi Cynthia,
The 1.5mm thickness of the Cali Complete allows us to use it for all of our flooring products even those that already have an attached pad. All of our non-bamboo GeoWood floors have a 2mm attached IXPE pad. I was looking on our website and it isn’t mentioned anywhere so thank you for bringing that to my attention, that’s definitely a feature we want to be communicating.
I would like to know if a Cali complete underlayment is needed when installing the oak geo wood product as the wood itself has an absorbent backing. Please advise recommended method as our installer recommends against a Cali complete due to the absorbent backing
Hi Peter, it’s only required if you’re installing over a concrete subfloor.
Would you recommend adding the underlayment on wood subfloors though? Or would it actually make it worse as the installer is suggesting due to the backing already existing. Looking for an install that will last long and also feel sturdy
Not exactly sure what you mean by “worse”. Cali Complete is designed to work with all of our floor types that are floated. The GeoWood product has a limestone core which while adding significant weight, gives the floor that “solid” feeling underfoot which is what I think you are referring to. Adding CaliComplete to the mix will give you a bit more acoustic and thermal insulation while improving the comfort just a touch. If you’re installing over plywood in a single level home you may not notice the benefits Cali Complete would offer but I don’t know what exactly he means by making it “worse”.
Our floor is half concrete subfloor and half plywood. We are using the Cali Complete on the entire floor for additional sound insulation. Do we need to do anything different at the transition where the concrete and plywood meet?
That’s fine but technically you should be using the metallic seal tape on the seams over the concrete sections.
Hello. I’m going to be installing calivinyl pro longboard with mutestep in our covered sunroom. It is built on top of a deck on the back of our house, and currently has a ceramic tile floor. I am going to install it on top of the existing flooring. Do I need to use a leveling compound over the grout lines, or can I just use the underlayment product? I live outside of Atlanta, GA. Thanks
Hi Greg,
Just so you’re aware, installing in sunrooms is not covered under warranty. That said, it should be just fine as long as it’s fairly protected from the elements. You could use Cali Complete to level out the grout lines, but the mutestep backing that’s already on the longboard product is likely good enough.
Project: in Hawaii, second floor condo bedroom,160 sq ft, laying over existing cement board over plywood (after carpet removed).
Flooring Choice: Cali Vinyl Plus (natural)
With Cali Vinyl plus directly on the cement board in the bedroom, it will be about 1/2in lower than the tile in the adjoining living room (open floor plan)
There would be benefit to having the two floors a little more even, so I was considering underlayment, and there is plenty of room for a thicker one.
With the cork backed Vinyl Plus over cement board (over second floor wood) is there any need, benefit, or problem with using an underlayment?
The felt underlayment is 3mm thick, and I imagine would give a softer, more sound proof feel, which we desire unless it is contraindicated for the flooring system, or is TOO squishy.
The Complete is harder, but with cork backed planks may be fine or better, but I think we would not want to seal off and trap moisture against the cement board covered wood floor beneath, Correct?
Which choice should we make? And if the felt is a good choice, are we confirmed it will not be too soft and uneven in the feel of the flooring system.
Hi Paul,
First of all, no underlayment is required. You’d be just fine laying the flooring and using a reducer to cover the floor transition. If you did want to add an underlayment, I would use Cali Complete, it’s designed to add just enough comfort without being too “squishy” which can put stress on the click mechanism.
Walker
I’m located in the “low desert” of California and interested in floating floor over 20 year old concrete slab.
I’m planning on using your CaliComplete along with metal tape for underlayment but have a couple questions.
Do you recommend installing a polyethylene underlayment in addition to the CaliComplete?
Is taping the wall always necessary? I’m planning on leaving the wall trim attached and taping the wall is not an option.
Hi Rock,
When installing over concrete, Cali Complete with the metallic seal tape on all edges and seams is what’s required. Also, we require an expansion gap, so you can’t butt the planks up against the baseboards, you’ll need to leave an expansion gap, so if you want to avoid removing your trim you’ll need to add a quarter round to cover the tape and expansion gap. The video on this page does a good job explaining the need for expansion gaps.
We plan to install antique Java fossilized T&G (9/16 x 5-3/8) on a concrete slab floor. We are interested in using the Cali complete underlayment. Would we glue the floor to the underlayment or does gluing to concrete preclude the use of this product? We prefer not to float the floor.
Hi Carol,
You would only use Cali Complete if you were floating the floor. Since you plan to glue-down, we require you seal the slab with Titebond 531+ prior to gluing down with Titebond 821 adhesive.
How does Cali Complete compare to Arcade Green underlayment (1.5mm) for performance? E.g. Comfort, insulation, noise…
Will the warranty be void if I do not use the Cali Complete for a Cali Vinyl Pro product on a concrete subfloor?
Or is it only recommended to use a 6 mil poly film for moisture barrier over concrete?
Hi Alonzo,
If you are installing over concrete, you will need some type of moisture barrier. Of course, we recommend Cali Complete, we feel it’s the best product on the market. When used with the metalized seal tape it gives you complete moisture barrier protection. We also recommend Titebond 531+, this is a moisture barrier that is rolled on like paint and also offers full moisture barrier protection in an inexpensive, fast and easy format. Using another moisture barrier other than these two will not void your warranty, but should a failure occur, you would need to provide documentation showing the moisture rating for whatever you do use. Looking at Arcade Green’s website, I’m seeing very little information and I’m not even seeing the words “Moisture Barrier” which is absolutely not the same as “Moisture Protection” or any other word variant shenanigans. Great question and best of luck!
Walker
When you use Titebond 531+, are you supposed to lay Cali Complete underlayment over Titebond (or is it either Titebond 531+ OR CaliComplete underlayment)?
Hi Dawn,
If you are gluing down you’ll want to use the Titebond 531+ it rolls onto the slab like paint and dries within 1 hour or less. If you’re floating the floor, you can use Titebond 531+ or Cali Complete, or both if you really wanted to. You just wouldn’t want to use Cali Complete if you are gluing or nailing down.
I bought Cali Bamboo Vinyl Pro click and lock Blonde Ale through Lowes.I am installing over an old plywood floor. I also bought underlayment from Lowes. Any advice about installing underlayment?
Not sure which underlayment you purchased but the general idea for underlayment is to lay or roll it out onto the floor and connect the edges of the rows with tape. Check out the video at the bottom of this post.
I just wanna know what is the reasoning behind puzzle piece side on the Cali underlayment. Why not just square like any other underlayment which makes for easier installation.
Hi Blake,
So over plywood subfloors we don’t recommend taping the seams of the underlayment as it can trap moisture below. The puzzle edge allows you to lay the underlayment without taping, allowing it to breathe just a bit.
Hi,
I am about to purchase your Cali Bamboo Fossilized 5-in Mocha Bamboo solid hardwood flooring. I have a few questions:
– Is it okay for use in humid Hawaii?
-Would it be best to float the floor and use no glue?
-We received a quote locally, they have that particular product in stock, but not any Cali underlayment. They quoted the purgo gold underlayment since that is what they had in stock. Will it be okay to use with your product? I am purchasing your flooring due to the low VOCs. Is this also a concern for the underlayment? Will the purgo gold “void” out the low VOC benefit of your product, or does it matter less since it will be under the floor. Will it void the warranty?
-Which Cali underlayment do you recommend for use on plywood sub-floor (that does have some irregularities such as spaces and piles of dry paint). Part of the house has a concrete sub-floor, but the rest is plywood, post and pier. It is a single story home.
-Which Cali underlayment is the most environmentally friendly.
Thanks
Hi Amy,
Since Hawaii is a very humid environment, installing a solid wood product is going to require extreme adherence to our installation guidelines. This video also does a good job of explaining it. You would only use underlayment if you floated the floor, and PergoGold underlayment, when used with the foil seal tape, is perfectly fine. Here are the main things you are going to want to make certain you perform correctly:
1. Acclimate the planks in an acclimation stack on a pallet in the room you plan to install it for a minimum of 14 days, longer if possible.
2. When installing be sure to allow 1/2 inch expansion space around any fixed objects like walls, pillars, door frames, vents, etc.
3. Break up all rooms and spans over 30 feet with t-moldings
4. Avoid putting objects over 500 pounds on a floated floor
5. Try to maintain a relative humidity within 40-60%
6. Never wet mop a wood floor, our vinyl floor care video covers proper technique, but you’ll want to use Bona for hardwood floors.
If all this is a bit overwhelming, I would actually recommend our engineered Fosilizzed Mocha Bamboo Model Number 7014006500 over the solid product. Engineered flooring is a bit more forgiving with regard to expansion and contraction in extremely humid environments and doesn’t require the long acclimation period.
We are going to install Cali eucalyptus over plywood. We have already installed eucalyptus in our bedrooms using Cali recycled felt underlayment. We have some cricking noise after installation – only been a couple of days since installation. I thought I read earlier that the cricking nose would go away after a few months???
I’m wondering if the Cali Complete would be better than the felt underlayment. I really hope to not have the cricking noise on the main floor.
How does the Cali Complete compare with the Cali recycled felt underlayment?
Also – – we floated the floor in the bedrooms.
Would gluing the flooring on the main floor be a better choice? Would it eliminate the cricking noise??
AND – – we chose “click/lock” for both floors.
Hi Lillie,
That issue is limited to floated floors so gluing down would eliminate it but gluing down click-lock flooring is tricky, sometimes certain planks don’t play nice with other planks and things can get hairy with all that sticky glue. I would float it like the other floors. The underlayment you choose doesn’t have much to do with floor sounds, its kind of up to chance, some floors make more noise than others. After a few months, however, it will all quiet down.
Walter, when did this product become available? We looked for a product in 2017 and did not see this!
Hi Margie,
February of 2017.
Hello,
We are purchasing the Cali Vinyl Pro line with the limestone backing. My question is, on top of the limestone backing is a cushion, rubber backing. Because of this rubber backing, do I need the underlayment? We are putting it throughout the house on the main floor, stairway and top floor. The basement is not being done. So, the area that is being re-floored is not in direct contact with concrete slab. So we need to know if the underlayment will be required.
Hi Christel,
As long as the subfloor is clean and level, an underlayment is not needed for our vinyl flooring.
How does the Cali Complete underlayment work with the CaliVinyl Pro if the tile is being installed with the glue down method? Will the glue bond to the underlayment? Or should the installation be a floating installation?
You’ll want to float the floor if you plan to use an underlayment.
I purchased Bamboo T&G and also Calicomplete for underlayment. It will be laid on wood subfloor. If these are used together, do you recommend Nailing, glueing or Floating?
If you plan to use an underlayment, you’ll want to float it.
I’m installing nail down t&g wide + engineered bamboo flooring on wood subfloor. I ordered cal complete with the flooring. After opening box the label said floating floor only. Can this be used for nail down?
While it certainly wouldn’t hurt anything, you typically wouldn’t use an underlayment when nailing a floor down. You’ll still get some thermal and sound insulation benefits but you’d lose any moisture or vapor barrier perks as you’ll be perforating it with nails. If you haven’t yet opened the CC I’m sure you could return them.
I am confused by the given R rating of 6.6/inch. Is that per inch thickness?
So if the Cali complete is 1.5mm it would have an actual R value of (6.6/24.5)*1.5 = 0.39?
Hi Robert,
I’m being told your math looks correct, and it’s enough to act as thermal break.
Walker
Hi,
I should have inquired before having our flooring installed, but I didn’t, but hoping the person who did it would have know. We are on a slab, and underneath our rug we pulled up are 9×9 asbestos tiles that were intact. We used the Cali Complete underlayment, on top pf the clean tile, and then used titebond for the tongue and groove bourbon barrel bamboo. Would you have suggested this not to be? Hopefully we don’t have to undue all of the work. If we did for some reason, can the floor be re-used. I’m nervous the tile underneath will break due the heaviness of the bamboo flooring. Thank you.
Hi Angela,
This sounds fine, what is the issue?
Thank you Walker.
I was just concerned that vapors from the asbestos tile can come through, or tile possibly crack since the floor is so strong. I guess with the vapor underlayment it should be fine.
I get why people choose not to go through the time and expense of removing asbestos tile, but it’s your decision, and if it keeps you up at night you know what you need to do. Since you floated the floor relatively recently, the flooring can be pulled up and re-laid without issue. If you do end up getting the tile removed, you will want to toss out the underlayment as that has had direct contact.
Can you use the cali complete system on top of titebone 531 as an additional moisture barrier, to help warm the flooring and dampen noise?
Hi Jane,
Sure, if you wanted added moisture protection with added thermal insulation, added comfort and noise reduction you can use both together.
Hello, I’m currently working with your sales rep and have several samples of your vinyl flooring but my wife wants the option of installing Cali Bamboo instead of the Vinyl Bamboo.
My main concern is that we will be installing it next door in our duplex rental unit and are worried about the noise leavel.
What product would recommend to use for sound dampening with your Cali Bamboo and which DIY Bamboo floor wood flooring would you recommend ? We have installed Brazilian cherry wood flooring in our side of the duplex so we have some experience with insulation.
Hi Ron,
Unless you are considering selling the unit, vinyl is a more practical solution for a rental unit. While bamboo is beautiful, it does require some upkeep, climate control, and very specific cleaning. If done improperly could damage the floor irreparably. Vinyl, on the other hand, is a lower cost up front, looks great and is nearly impossible for someone to destroy. The third option on the table is GeoWood, it’s real wood on top and performs more like vinyl flooring. If your wife really wants wood, then I’d go with GeoWood, otherwise, vinyl is the safest choice. Hope this helps.
Greetings – I’m interested in putting engineered bamboo wide click in my basement over concrete subfloors. I’d like to install an electric radiant heating system, and I’m curious what you feel the best underlayment would be. Do you recommend Cali Complete All in One underlayment directly over the concrete, then the radiant heat mat, then the engineered bamboo flooring floating on top? Does the Cali Complete overlayment replace the need to apply Titebond 531 on the concrete first?
Thanks!
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I didn’t get a super straightforward answer as we often tell customers to follow the recommendations of their particular radiant heat system. That said, generally, we recommend floating right over the radiant system, no underlayment needed. We always recommend sealing your concrete slab with 531+ as long as it doesn’t conflict with your specific heating system which it shouldn’t. Lastly, some radiant heat systems offer very little temperature control, we only warrant our floors for systems that can be kept under 85°.
Can I use my Roomba to “vacuum” Cali Vinyl Plus?
Can I use a regular upright vacuum cleaner?
The roomba is fine, and the upright is ok only if you can turn off the beater bar.
We will be flooring a first floor concrete slab house in New Mexico’s Chihuahuan Desert where today the humidity is 7% . Humidity can be as high as 70% for a few weeks during monsoon season temperatures swing from 29 f to 110 f on both extremes with the hotter days being either dry or humid and cooler days being mostly dry. We like bamboo or eucalyptus wide click for bedrooms and hallway. The house currently has Saltillo tile and some porcelain tile in the bathrooms. We know one person so far in the area who has had bamboo in his house for about 5 years and he loves it but he does not know the details and he bought it from LL for about $2.50/sf.
Do you recommend bamboo or eucalyptus for desert climate? Or do you have a better suggestion for our situation?
That’s one extreme climate. Solid flooring is interesting, it can be fine, or it can go south(no punn intended). 2 weeks or more acclimation time and proper expansion gaps during installation help tip the scale in your favor. The less risky option would be Engineered Bamboo which tends to care less where it’s installed, and an even better option is GeoWood flooring, it’s amazingly stable. The only downside is limited color options in both lines. Either way you go, you sould definately seal the slab with Titebond 531+ or if you float the floor, use Cali Complete underlayment with the metallic seal tape.
Hi guys. Have a quick question. We had a leak that flooded part of the current floor. We need to replace pretty much the entire floor. The first level currently has engineered hardwood glued over concrete. We do not have a basement. The second level currently has carpet. We are looking at Cali Solid Bamboo Vintage Java Click Lock. We are in the metro Washington DC area with cold winters as of lately and humid hot summers. Questions:
1. Would Cali Solid Bamboo Vintage Java Click Lock work over the concrete base? Our preference is NOT to glue it or nail it (2nd floor plywood). The guy at Lowes said that the only option over concrete and without glueing is Click Lock. So from the color options, we liked the Vintage Java. Would T&G also work in that case?
2. For the first floor after taking off the old glued engineered floor and cleaning up, do we need to perform any other tasks before putting the underlayment?
3. What kind of underlayment do you recommend for the first floor (concrete) and second floor (plywood)? Metalized seal tape on 1st and 2nd? Read somewhere that sealing might trap the moisture under the underlayment and might build a mold and damage the underfloor.
Thank a lot!
Peshko
Hi Peshko,
Hands down I’d go with Jasperwood from our GeoWood collection. It’s click-lock and nearly identical to Vintage java in color, but the stone composite core will resist expansion and contraction better with your area’s temp/humidity extremes. I would use our Cali Complete underlayment, just make sure to use the seal tape over the concrete only, no tape needed over the plywood.
Walker
Walker, thank you very much for your fast response! Highly appreciate it!
Boy you just crashed my wife’s dreams 🙂 She did some serious reading on the bamboo flooring…
How would you compare the durability of the GeoWood to that of the solid bamboo?
Thanks again, Walker!
Peshko
Well technically it is still the same super-dense, super-durable Fossilized® bamboo flooring material, it also has the same 10-coat aluminum oxide scratch resistant finish, it’s just got the limestone composite core making it more moisture resistant. Think RoboCop, but flooring 😉 Have your rep send you a free sample, once your wife feels the weight and the quality, she’ll be onboard. Plus, I think it even costs less, what’s not to love?
Once we open the Pandora box with questions we can’t close it;-)
One question my wife has is how to repair a bad dent or any kind of freaky accidents also known as life.
And second, with this specific flooring do we need to useTitebond® 531?
No problem, we have color-matched repair kits for each floor that includes a putty stick for deep gouges and a scratch repair marker for quick fixes.
Why is no tape needed over the seems of underlayment when installing over plywood? Also I have been reading about concerns of using a moisture barrier over plywood leading to moisture entrapment on the plywood when laying hardwood. I have your engineered bamboo(click and lock as well as tongue and groove. How do I avoid this risk for my plywood subfloor, yet give the bamboo what it needs?
Hi Brionna,
You are on the right track. We don’t recommend using the seal tape with Cali Complete underlayment over plywood as moisture can be trapped underneath which can lead to subfloor damage. Take away the seal tape and just connect the puzzle piece edges and the underlayment itself can properly protect without suffocating the subfloor.
Walker
Hello, we just had plumbers fill a 20′ wide, 7 foot long, 12-20″ deep trench from a half bath through the entryway and are replacing the flooring there with Cali Bamboo Vinyl. How long do you recommend waiting for the concrete to cure? I was going to use the Cali Complete underlayment as well because we are replacing floors in three simultaneous rooms that currently have tile, carpet and laminate and I thought that would lead to a more even floor. I also hate any hollowness associated with hollow floors. Does this sound like a good plan?
Hi Erica,
We recommend waiting for 60 days for a slab to thoroughly dry before installing flooring over top. If you don’t like the hollow feeling of floated floors, I would seal the slab with Titebond 531+ and then glue-down the flooring with Titebond 821, assuming you have T&G milled flooring. You can still glue down with click-lock, but it’s trickier.
We are mid way in the installing process and I noticed a difference in feel under my feet when walking on the first floor which is a recently re leveled concrete subfloor and the second floor which is wood. The concrete floor is not smooth, but is level!
The Cali Pro over the wood subfloor is wonderful! Love it!
The Cali Pro over the recently leveled concrete subflooring just isn’t “right”. Some planks seem to go down the slightest bit when walked upon and have a much different sound. Sounds like its going to crack, but I’m doubting this to happen. Some seem to be firm on the concrete while others are “floating”.
Would any of underlays help with this situation? We want low to no VOC.
Hi Kelly,
The Cali Complete underlayment is the best product we offer to alleviate minor subfloors imperfections (roughness) over concrete. If some planks feel like they are floating while others feel solid, the subfloor must be somewhat unlevel. The crackling sound you’re hearing is the click mechanism flexing but it will not break, and the sound will slowly diminish and be unnoticeable in about 3 months. The floor after a few months of use may settle into its new home and feel more solid. If the hollow feeling persists and is just too disappointing, you could re-level the subfloor or simply glue down to the concrete and remove the underlayment. Keep in mind if the floated floor over the wood and the glued down floor over the concrete touch, you’ll need to have a 1/2″ expansion gap between them and conceal it with a t-molding. Personally, I would give it a few months and re-evaluate it. Hope you are taking lots of pictures to share with us!
Congrats on your new floors!
I am putting down the Solid Bamboo in my bathroom. It is a small 60″ x 54″ room. Should I float or glue down the floor. I am worried that floating the floor in such a small space it might slide a bit on the concrete subfloor. Should I be concerned? If gluing what glue should I use over the titebond 531 moisture barrier? Would it be better to use the Cali Complete™ All-in-One Underlayment? I just poured the leveling cement today, do I need to wait 60 days? 1st time floor install for me. Any suggestions for best outcome would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Hi Joe,
No, 60 days is for freshly poured slabs, self-leveler cures after 24 to 48 hours. If you have click-lock milled planks, I would float it, should you have a toilet overflow, a floated floor could be lifted and salvaged pretty easily, while a glued-down floor you’d just have to cross your fingers and wait and see.
I just recently nailed down the calli java floor and love it so much we are going to put it in an adjoining bedroom, if I want to just float the floor useing the new underlayment will it bring the floor higher to the nailed down floor?
I used just a thin white roll that lowels sold to me for the nail down.
Thanks you and love the floor
Hi Kris,
You’ll need to have a 1/2″ expansion gap between the nailed down and floated flooring which can be concealed with a T-Molding. Floated floors need to be able to freely expand and contract with seasonal changes and can’t be butted up against any fixed objects like walls, columns cabinets and in your case, nailed down flooring.
We just purchased Cali vinyl pro and have a concrete sub floor what type of underlayment would be suffient?
For concrete subfloors we recommend using a moisture barrier, not to be confused with a vapor barrier, the latter being less effective. Some underlayments such as Cali Complete when used with the metallic tape are also moisture barriers. Titebond 531+ is a moisture barrier that you roll on like paint, it’ll give you the moisture protection you need but doesn’t offer any insulation or comforft benefits.
Our contractor is going to float T&G Antique Java instead of glue down which was originally planned. Do the joints have to be glued?
We installed Pergo click in our bedroom and it was not glued.
Hi Jim,
Yes, if you are floating T&G milled flooring, you’ll want to glue the planks using Tongue & Groove glue and give it a day to dry before walking on or moving furniture back on it.
How soon will Lowes have your GeoWood samples and product for puchase? Need to replace main floor (over 1200 sq ft) after plumbing leak. Water was rerouted from foundation to space between ceiling and second floor. Reclamation came in and dried up floors. The wet area was not large or severe. We had home built in 1999 and have never had any kind of issue or cracks in walls. Live in San Antonio, Texas so we have heat and humidity. We have a new Lennox AC and it keeps humidity betweeb 30 and 45 %, depending on thermostat setting. Currently we are setting at 72. In summer, it’s usually set at 75 or higher, depending on outside temp and humidity. Is that ok for GeoWood in our area? I wouldn’t want buckling. Regarding the underlayment, I’ve heard from several installers that a floating floor with a moisture barrier can hide a water leak and create possible mold issues, where a glue down floor will expose a water leak sooner and can be repaired sooner. What are your thoughts on that?
Hi Diana,
We hope to have GeoWood available in April. While your statement sounds logical, a moisture leak is always a bad thing, and generally leads to flooring replacement and mold remediation steps regardless of installation method.
I’m currently in a condo and want to lay Cali Bamboo flooring over the carpet. The management company has approved it. Is it possible to install the flooring and under layment over carpet?
We do not recommend laying flooring over carpet. The added give will put stress on the click mechanism and it could break.
Hello, we have purchased Cali bamboo antique Java hardwood to install in our kitchen and dining room. We plan on nailing down the boards and have some conflicting advice on underlayment. Should we purchase underlayment for insulation and noise barrier benefits? Some websites have stated that it could cause problems in the future. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hi Robert,
If you’re nailing down, we typically do not recommend using underlayments, as it eliminates all benefits aside from slight noise reduction and thermal insulation. If these are two benefits you are after then it won’t hurt anything. Underlayments are typically used to either add comfort or to guard against moisture two things that nailing a floor down negate.
I am looking at purchasing the Cali Bamboo for my flooring in a new condo and the management company needs to know the IIC for just the underlay I am using. The IIC ratings I see on your website is for the total floor solution including the bamboo floor and the cement. I am not sure which underlay I will pick yet so can you give me the IIC for all three types of underlay. ex cork, complet or felt.
Hi Cathy,
It is my understanding that since underlayment is only found in conjunction with a flooring material, it is always tested with a flooring material and never by itself. Most underlayment manufacturers, however, do not specify or give details about what flooring material has been utilized for testing purposes. Here’s the sound rating breakdown (higher numbers are better and most building codes require at least 50):
Cork ICC = 58
Felt ICC = 67
CaliComplete ICC = 63
I have a wooden subfloor over a crawlspace. I will be floating the Cali Vinyl Plus over the Cali Complete. Is there a reason to NOT tape the seams of the Cali Complete? I noticed an earlier answer dated June 7, 2017, “…if you do use Cali Complete, don’t tape the seams, the tape is only for concrete subfloors.” Thank you for any clarification you can provide on this.
Hi Sean,
In humid environments, taping the seams can actually trap moisture under the underlayment and cause damage to wood subfloors.
Planning to install Cali Bamboo Java Standard T&G over a plywood subfloor on the second floor in a 3.5’x20′ hall and on a 8’x8′ stair landing. I saw your comment about not being able to use underlayment when nailing or gluing. Why is underlayment not an option when nailing? Also, I am planning a nail-down installation due to the narrow hall. Two questions – Do I really need 1/2″ gap at walls when nailing? I don’t understand how the floor can move that much when nailed. It seems that if it expanded and contracted that much the nails would work out of the subfloor. The house is in Florida but is seldom without air conditioning; the humidity is generally in the 60% range.
Hi Al,
While you could put an underlayment under a nail-down you won’t get most of the benefits the underlayment provides other than added thermal and sound insulation. Yes, we play it safe here and just require 1/2″ across the boards. True, it applies more to floated floors but a little expansion space never hurts. Think of it as gapping or buckling insurance.
The space between the floors is not environmentally controlled but the areas above and below are, and I was looking for some noise insulation. If it is acceptable for use, just not needed, I think I will lay some Cali Complete.
Thanks.
Yep, it will give you thermal and sound insulation.
Hi. I recently purchased @ 400 sq ft of the eucalyptus flooring t&g (by accident, I wanted click/lock -another story) as well as the cali complete underlayment from Lowe’s. I have a unique isosceles trapezoid-shaped room that I built myself, with a 3/4″ plywood floor. The floor dimensions are roughly 22x22x22x10. My question is concerning the direction recommended to run the cali complete underlayment. I will start the first run by running the planks (perpendicular to the floor joists under the plywood), “parallel” to one of the two 22′ side walls. This will obviously require lots of mitered cuts along both walls. If you can imagine the degree to which both 22′ side walls curve in toward the shortest 10′ wall you can see that also running the underlayment “parallel” with both side walls would waste a tremendous amount of underlayment. Running the underlayment perpendicular under the planks and straight across the room from each of the 22′ sidewalls makes much more sense. And, the interlocking tab cutouts on the underlayment will match up perfectly, sealing the floor in every direction. Technically, I am not even required to use the extra barrier of underlayment as I already have an 8 mil vapor barrier under the floor on the ground as well as R-34 (R-15 rockwool/R19 fiberglass-formaldehyde-free) combo between floor joists. Given that, is there a specific reason that would preclude installing the underlayment as I want? Thank you.
Hi John,
It doesn’t really matter what direction you lay the Cali Complete. Lay it in the direction that makes most sense, hopefully, it’s the same direction that’s also the easiest and produces less waste.
How much does the Cali Complete underlayment cost per sq foot?
Hi Kim,
I believe it’s about $.60/sqft.
I”m sure price varies depending on locale, if you buy from Big Box or direct etc. But I had to answer since I just checked Lowes and their stupid website says $59.99 per square foot – so about $78,000 for my project! Maybe I should go with the regular Cali underlayment which is only $39.99 per square foot, costing me only $53,000!!! Clearly Lowes (as usual) has wrong information, but I had to post it in hopes that CaliB can finally get them to correct it.
I’m guessing since it comes in 100 ft roll it probably (at least locally here) would be $0.60 per square foot, and the 3mm one would be about $0.40 per square foot. Hope that helps.
The price is right, but it’s for each box not per sqft. I’ve notified the person that can update this, no wonder it hasn’t been flying off the shelves. Thanks for the heads up 😉
I am planning to put down a Cali Bamboo floating floor over a plywood subfloor (2nd floor of home). How would you compare the performance of the Cali Complete with the other option of combining the cork underlayment with the Silicon Vapor Shield? I noticed that the cork underlayment is a little thicker, but the Cali Complete appears to be easier to install.
Cali Complete is our newest and best performing underlayment option. We offer cork and recycled felt as a more eco-friendly option to Cali Complete. SVS is our lowest cost underlayment and offers only the most basic moisture protection.
We are planning to use Cali-Bamboo vinyl click planks on our first level which is a concrete floor.
I understand that using Cali-Complete underlayment would work as a moisture and for a quieter floor.
Do we need to put down any other type of moisture barrier under the Cali-Complete.
We live in the Seattle, WA area. Thanks for any advice you can think of.
Can Cali be installed above an existing wood deck and between a vinyl floor on top?
Not totally sure what you are asking Rick. Ben our installation expert will be emailing you to clarify.
Hi Rick,
What do you mean by an existing wood deck? If you are talking about an outdoor deck, the Cali Complete wood not be applicable as it is made for indoor use only. If you are referring to an indoor sub floor as a “deck” then yes this product works great over all plywood, OSB and original 1 x 6 sub flooring. For any sub floor prep please refer to the install guides on our website.
Hi, I’m considering Vinyl panels with the attached cork underlay for a second floor kitchen with plywood subfloor. Reducing the noise and impact factors are of great importance. Would also laying down Cali Complete under the 1.5mm-2mm integrated underlay of the vinyl give me significant additional noise reduction? Is in even advisable to use additional underlayment with panel’s built-in underlay?
Hi Pauline,
You are correct, the integrated cork underlayment on our vinyl plank flooring makes it a touch more comfortable and adds sound and thermal insulation. If you were to add Cali Complete, you would get even more comfort, sound and thermal insulation.
Hi Mr. Hicks,
We are preparing a 144sq ft outdoor building (restored garden shed into a home office/living space) with climate control, etc. It is a woodframe structure, wood floor joists elevated about 1 ft off of the ground on piers, with plywood over the joists.
Our intent is to install CaliComplete on the plywood, then install CalilBamboo floating click lock flooring.
In previous post you noted that taping the seams is not necessary unless installing over concrete. Did I read that correctly? In other words, I don’t have to tape the seams for my over-plywood install?
Also, will CaliComplete suffice as a vapor barrier (based on what I’ve read, it appears so)? We are in St Augustine, FL (NorthEastern FL south of Jacksonville).
Thanks very much for your guidance.
Tony and Cindy
You are correct. For above-grade installations over a plywood subfloor, you do not need to tape Cali Complete. The underlayment alone is sufficient moisture barrier.
How does Cali Complete compare to Pergo Gold for performance? E.g. Comfort, insulation, noise…
Hi Chris,
I tried comparing them side by side but had trouble finding specs on Pergo Gold (PG). I can tell you they cost about the same and both cover 100sqft, Cali Complete is warranted at 12lbs./12% moisture content and Pergo only covers 3lbs./4.5%. PG is thicker at 3mm than CC at 1.5mm but CC is denser and much heavier. We post our spec sheet on our website and our STC and IIC tests show results for all of our flooring types, Bamboo, Eucalyptus, Cork and Vinyl. If you can find the STC/IIC rating for PG, it doesn’t state what floor type was used in the testing. Let me know if you need any more info.
Best,
My house was built in 1989 and it came with the vinyl sheet floor in the kitchen. I have to assume it is not a linoleum. It is glued down to plywood underlayment. The vinyl floor is in great shape with no tears or bumps.
I would like to replace the floor with Cali Vinyl Gray Ash Plank Flooring and have few questions.
Can I install Cali Vinyl directly on top of the existing vinyl sheet?
If yes, do I need to put down Cali Complete underlayment? My main concern is the moisture build up and mode issues.
I understand that the safest thing to do is to remove the vinyl sheet and the attached underlayment but if your experience suggests that placing Gray Ash plank directly on the existing vinyl floor is perfectly acceptable and there are no warranty issues, please let me know.
Thank you!
John
Hi John,
As long as the existing flooring is level and extremely clean and dry, you can install right over it, no underlayment required. You’re right though, the correct thing to do is to remove it to eliminate all possibility of moisture getting trapped in there. I debated the exact same thing and ended up removing my linoleum but halfway through removal I completely regretted it since it was really difficult to pull up but now that it’s done I guess feel glad I took the time to do it, but if I had to do it again, I would probably just leave it. Sorry for the wishy-washy answer.
Hi Mr. Hicks,
Thank you for your quick response. I will most likely lay over it but wondering if I use Cali Complete underlayment, will I get added cushion/comfort and advantage over any moisture and vapor related issue or will it actually create any issues?
In short, is the cork backing is better in contact with Cali Complete underlayment or in direct contact with linoleum?
Thank you,
John
If you use Cali Complete, you will get a more comfortable floor. You will also get added moisture protection between the underlayment and the floor, but not between the linoleum and the underlayment. So really the only benefit would be comfort. Oh, and if you do use Cali Complete, don’t tape the seams, the tape is only for concrete subfloors.
We are thinking of putting Calibamboo in our kitchen when we remodel. It will go over plywood. We are thinking of using T & G bamboo. Would it be to our benetfit to use the underlay?
If you or your installer plans to nail-down or glue-down, underlayment is not an option. If you plan to float the floor, an underlayment can do several things for you:
• Adds comfort
• Adds thermal insulation
• Levels minor subfloor imperfections
• Added moisture protection
We offer 4 different underlayments, here they are in order of cost/performance:
Cali Complete (The Cadillac of underlayments, but not so eco-friendly, so I guess it’s the Hummer of underlayments)
Premium+ Cork (The Tesla of Underlayments, high performance and eco-friendly)
Eco-felt Underlayment (The Toyota Prius of Underlayments, good performance, eco-friendly just kinda funky looking)
Silicone Vapor Shield (Think Ford Fiesta, the basics at an attractive price)
Hope this helps, or at least makes you LOL.
Best,
Walker
Can I also get a copy of the results of VOC testing? In addition, I would like to check on the R value, as I was advised by a Cali product rep that it would work well on a cement slab that has hydroponic heat in it. I need to confirm before the installers order it. Thanks.
Yep, safe to use with radiant heat. I just emailed you the test results.
Walker
PLease send me a copy of the results of the VOC testing. Thank you.
Sent. Here’s a link to the test report.
Is the metal looking tape on the video included with the Cali Complete?
It is not, we sell the tape separately because it is not needed for plywood subfloors.
The Cali Complete Floor Underlayment sounds great!
But…I have searched high and low – where can I buy it and how much is it?
I don’t need a sample. I need 800+ sqft to put under Cali solid bamboo (click).
Thanks.
Hi Jaye,
We’re not selling it on the website yet, only samples. Call us or email [email protected] to talk to a sales rep that can place the order.
Best,
What is the Cali Complete™ Floor Underlayment made of?Did you do any VOC tests of it?
Thanks,
Sabrina
Sure do, I’ll send you the test results directly.
Best,
Howdy. I’m about to install a floating Catalina Fossilized T&G Engineered floor over a concrete-slab subfloor. [I’m up in the Oakland hills, so the temperature extremes aren’t huge, but the winters are pretty rainy.] The floor will float over a Cali-Complete underlayment. Do I still need Titebond 531+ under the underlayment, or is the Cali-Complete barrier enough? [And does Cali Bamboo sell the Titebond 531+?]
Thanks heaps,
David
Hi David,
The Cali Complete is all you need, but you must seal the seams with the metalized seal tape. Watch the Cali Complete installation video.
Good morning I am using the Cali complete and have watched the video multible time . I have concrete floors and will need to use metalized seal tape to join the pieces . I will also need to tape to the outside wall my question is will I need to tape to the interior walls as well ?
Hi Denise,
I’d play it safe and tape all walls. If you need an extra roll, reach out to your sales rep or contact our support team and they may be able to get you another.