Green Shoots Blog
Thinking about installing a bamboo floor over a concrete slab but worried about moisture seeping through and damaging the floor? Protect your investment by applying Titebond 531+ Moisture Control System before gluing down or floating your floor over concrete. This concrete vapor barrier minimizes moisture transferred from the slab to your floor by 75-90%, helping to prevent mold, mildew, and moisture-related issues. We require Titebond 531+ for all installations over concrete subfloors, especially if you live in a hot and humid area like Miami, or cold and rainy area like Portland.
-Cure time is approximately 1.5 to 2 hours at 70˚F. Cali recommends planning for 4+ hours (overnight if possible) before installing your floor
-Allows for same-day installation of flooring material
-10-year residential warranty; 5-year commercial warranty
-No slab testing required for wood installations
-No moisture limitation for wood installations
-Mold and mildew resistant
-VOC-compliant with all federal and state regulations as well as the SCAQM
-Meets LEED-Green Building Standard 189, GBI-Green Globes Design Standard, NAHB/ICC Natl. Green Building Qualifications
Talk to your Cali Bamboo Green Building Consultant for more tips on installing over concrete, and to request a quote for Titebond 531+ concrete vapor barrier. Call (858) 200-9540 Today!
Can you install cali bamboo wich way on concrete
Hello! When installing on concrete subfloors, concrete must be fully cured and at least 60 days old. Concrete must be free of dirt, oil, paint, old adhesive, wax, sealers and curing agents. Concrete that is not properly leveled can cause improper adhesive transfer, hollow spots, and squeaks. Sand or grind down high spots. Level low spots with appropriate leveling material; allow extra drying time for the leveling compounds. Test subfloor moisture content. To minimize moisture transfer from the slab, apply: Titebond 531+ Moisture Control System.
Can you use the 531 + over a self leveling concrete?
Sure can! I’d let the self-leveler cure for 24 hours prior to application.
I think I see that you recommend tight bond 531 over concrete for geowood if the concrete moisture content is over 4.5%. Is that correct?
Hi Heidi,
You should be safe with 531+ up to 12%. What type of flooring are you planning to install?
I rolled on Tightbond on concrete old concrete floor, then installed Mocha Fossilized Wide Click Bamboo Flooring, allowing it to float, instead of glueing down. It looks great, but has many places where hardwood gives as its walked on. Could I take up the bamboo flooring and put down an underlay and get a better result as far as the floor not making such a hollow sounds when its walked on?
Hi George,
Yes, an underlayment like Cali Complete will help smooth out inconsistencies in a subfloor and give you added moisture protection. You certainly can pull the planks up and relay. If you don’t want to have to get the saw out again, I would number the planks on the bottom and try to keep them in order as you remove them.
do not know how much 531 and 821 to purchase. how much does a gallon of the 531 cover and how much does the 3.5 gal pail of 821 cover
One gallon of mixed Titebond 531+ covers 320 sqft.
For the Titebond 821 it depends on the trowel used, see below:
Engineered Flooring | 3/16”W X 1/4”D X 11/16” C-C (OR 1/2” SPACE) V-NOTCH | APPROXIMATELY 65 SQ.FT. PER GALLON
Solid Bamboo & Eucalyptus 3+” Wide | 3/16″ X 3/16″ X 3/16″ (SQUARE-NOTCH) | APPROXIMATELY 35 SQ. FT. PER GALLON
Website References:
http://www.titebond.com/product/flooring/544e53c8-effc-4fb1-907d-cf98e20401af
http://www.titebond.com/product/flooring/b73002f8-8a0d-49c7-9587-502bb372c9f8
I am planning for a Cali natural fossilized wide click floor (9/16” thick). The installation will be on a cement slab. How many square feet does the 531+ cover?
I am somewhat confused as to choose floating or glue down. How do I make that decision? If I choose floating I use the 531+ and an underlayment. Which one? If I glue down I don’t need underlayment. Is that correct?
Hi Larry,
The Titebond website says 1 gallon covers 320sqft. If you float and use 531+ then an underlayment is a bonus. You could use the felt, cork or Cali Complete with the metallic seal tape for the ultimate moisture protection.
If you glue down, you’ll either want to use an adhesive that has a moisture barrier mixed in like Bostik® GREENFORCE™ or you’ll want to use Titebond 531+ first then use their 821 adhesive.
If you want the floor to feel very solid underfoot you should glue down. If you want the floor to be a bit more comfortable to live on then floating with a quality underlayment is the way to go.
Hi Walker–
I am considering the fossilized cali bamboo on a concrete floor at grade. Which is the better way to go–the 531+ and the 821 adhesive or the Bostik Greenforce?
Is one less expensive than the other? Is one preferred over the other?
Also, I have one floor that was painted with concrete paint (standard off the shelf paint for concrete), do I have to remove the paint before applying either the 531 or the Greenforce?
Thank you !
Donna
Hi Donna,
I’m being told by our installation expert that since you are gluing down, you will need to get that paint off the concrete before using the 531+ or Greenforce products.
Hello, I’m considering the solid Eucalyptus, floated over concrete slab. Kristina said that the engineered Eucalyptus is being phased out and only limited quantities are available. I’ve always been told that solid hardwood over concrete was a no, no. So is it 100% safe to float the solid Eucalyptus click style over concrete, will there be any warranty for this install. ?
I see the proper slab prep and underlayments are recommended. I guess I’m having a hard time believing that solid wood over concrete is ok.?
Hi Rick,
It’s fully warranted as long as you use one of our recommended moisture barriers. You’ll want to either seal the slab with Titebond 531+ or use our Cali Complete underlayment with the metallic seal tape.
Walter, for floating click lock solid bamboo installation over concrete in a relatively high moisture area (of a Southern California high rise condo located along the coast) such as a bathroom or kitchen, is there any moisture protection benefit of using BOTH the Cali Complete Underlayment with the metalized seal tape and Titebond 531+? Or is use of both completely redundant? Also, same question for a relatively low moisture area such as a hallway, closet, or living room. Thank you.
Hi Gregg,
While we only require one or the other, there’s certainly no issue with using both if it gives you added peace of mind.
I just received part of my flooring order (Mocha Fossilized Eucalyptus). I have it stacked the way recommended. I live in NC by the coast. Just to verify, from what I read I am to leave it stacked for 13 days? Also, I bought a moisture tester from Lowes. Its reading my slab as anywhere from 71% – 79% on the masonry setting. I did purchase the Cali Complete underlayment. Will this be sufficient for installation?
Thank you for your time
Hi Serena,
13 days is great. The Cali Complete will work over concrete as long as you seal the seams with the metalized seal tape. If you forgot to get the tape, Lowe’s has another brand on the shelf called Floor Comfort that is the same stuff.
Hello! I love your vintage port fossilized T&G solid bamboo at lowes. Is there a recommended meathod for installing this on a concrete slab above grade in central Florida climate? Or do you have a similar product and install method that you recommend in this case?
Hi Justin,
I’ve seen it done two ways, I’ve seen people lay down plywood over the concrete and nail-down. My only guess as to why they would do this would be to facilitate easy removal should flooding have occurred as they were down by the waterfront. Otherwise, I would seal the slab with 531+ and glue-down with 821. Here’s a video that shows how.
I see that the 531+ Sealer is (required) over above-grade concrete, in a float install. What if the new “Complete” Underlayment is used ? What about 12mil plastic …. not .12 , TWELVE mil. ?
Reason being, first … 531+ is not readily available in the area, which is a hassle if you need “a little bit more”. Next, it’s pretty (overpriced) expensive.
12mils of sheet plastic is CONSIDERABLY thicker than (average) vapor/moisture barrier, which averages 3-4mil.
Finally, the 531+ is only guaranteed 10yrs, which is significantly less than the flooring itself, which again, leads me back to the 12mil. Sheet plastic, which will literally outlast the house ….
Thanks
Titebond matches our floors Warranty when used together on above grade concrete subfloors. As for sheet plastic as a moisture barrier, we don’t recommend it. Not because we want you buy ours and pay more, it’s because moisture barriers are designed specifically for this purpose and do more than just stop moisture from getting to the floor, they also allow moisture trapped below the barrier to dissipate. The Cali Complete is a nice solution because, in addition to it’s moisture barrier benefits, it adds comfort to the floor and is a thermal and sound insulator, plastic gives you none of these added benefits.
But even with the top tier “Complete”, 531+ is STILL required ?
Sorry Rico, I misunderstood the question, no you do not need both, either product will adequately protect the flooring.
I want to in install the T&G solid wood on an old concrete slab on ground level in Georgia which is humid in the summer. I see I must seal it with 531 and using the glue 821 and leave a 1/4″ gap all around. I don’t want to sound stupid but if it is glued down won’t it keep the wood from expanding if it needs to? Also any other things I should be looking at with this install thanks.
You’re correct Mike, the glue down method significantly inhibits expansion and contraction. The 1/4″ around the perimeter and all fixed objects is insurance against any movement. Basically, there are two schools of thought to floor laying, you’re either accepting expansion and contraction as a natural occurrence and plan for it when floating the floor or you are fighting expansion and contraction by nailing or gluing down and hoping for the best. Acclimating the flooring can significantly help reduce movement, but in places that get humidity fluctuations, it’s just going to happen. The biggest problem people have with floated floors is the “hollow” feel it has when walked on, especially if they have had glued or nailed down floors in the past. In either case, if moisture and movement is a big concern, I would steer you towards the Engineered bamboo flooring over the solid hardwood, it tolerates humidity fluctuations better.
We bought the Distressed Mocha click and lock for our living room. We plan to float it. Our house is ~20 years old, in North Texas, concrete slab. We will be replacing the carpet(yay!). Lowe’s recommends Pergo Gold underlayment, but said nothing about 531+ Titebond. Is the 531+ required or is the Pergo Gold enough?
Also saw your underlayments on your website (Lowes here doesn’t carry them). How do they compare to the Pergo Gold?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Marc,
First off, you should always test your slab for moisture prior to installing flooring, especially hardwood. You can find information about testing your subfloor here. If your slab is below 3lbs and 4.5%, Pergo Gold is fine, anything above that requires Titebond 531+. Lowes doesn’t have 531+ on the shelf but they can have it shipped to your door. Personally, I would double up and use both, you can never be too cautious.
Best,
Walker
Lowe’s no longer ship the product and doesn’t carry it in their stores. Where else can you buy it or a suitable substitute?
Hi Marissa,
You could get it from us here: https://www.calibamboo.com/floor-installation-supplies.html
The folks at Titebond could also help you find a reseller in your area if you wanted to pick it up locally.
Best,
Hi Walter,
We are considering using engineered bamboo flooring in our basement. Do you recommend that we glue the floor to the concrete slab, or should we float it? Thanks!
Hi Mike,
Some people prefer the “solid” feeling of glued down flooring, but others prefer floated floors since you can use underlayments and give more comfort to the floor. How would you prefer the floor to feel when walked on, comfortable or solid?
HI Walker,
I’d doing wide plank Driftwood cork for our basement and trying to figure out what to do with the stairs going down to the basement? I see that many of the Bamboo and Eucalyptus are available in stair treads, is that material ok for stairs leading to basement? Anything else I shoud be aware of
Hi Jeremy,
We have color-matched stair nosing for the Driftwood Cork. You’ll floor the top and the front of the step with flooring and use this piece for the step edge:
I’m looking at calibamboo to put on an at grade concrete slab in southern Florida, where it’s humid year-round. I’m going with 531+ sealant then an underlayment. Which underlayment is better in a humid environment: cork or felt?
Also, I believe the engineered bamboo is better for a humid environment, but that it can’t be refinished. Is that true?
Finally, what’s better for humidity with an underlayment: floating or glued? (And, can you glue on to an underlayment?)
Hi Mary,
531+ is a fantastic sealer, good choice. The felt and cork are good eco-friendly underlayments, either will work fine, but the cork will add a touch more comfort and sound dampening both in and between rooms. You are correct, the engineered floors tend to tolerate extremely humid and extremely dry environments better. You absolutely can refinish engineered floors. There’s 3/16″ of solid bamboo which should be plenty of material for a skilled refinisher to work with, several refinishes if they’re really good. That said, it’s a common question coming from hardwood flooring owners who rely on refinishing to bring floors back to their former glory. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how well the floors will hold up to pets and the like if kept clean and I’d be willing to bet that over 90% of our floors have not been refinished. As for your installation options, since your subfloor is concrete and it sounds like you want the added comfort of an underlayment so floating is the way to go, you cannot glue down or nail down with an underlayment. If you go with the engineered flooring, it has T&G milling so to float that, you’ll want to get some T&G glue and glue the edges of the planks together but the floor floats on top of the underlayment. If the color you want happens to be solid you have the choice of T&G milling or click lock. The click lock is a bit nicer to float since you don’t need any glue.
Let me know if you have any further questions and I hope you choose Cali Bamboo, if you do, we’d love to see photos of you project from start to finish.
Best,
Walker
Thanks! I also noticed that cork is a great option for bathrooms & kitchens where water is expected. I assume that means cork is also a good choice for southern Florida, where it’s humid, on a concrete slab. Correct?
Also, what’s a better bet for humid Florida: engineered bamboo or cork?
Correctomundo Mary, cork is great for water prone rooms, but our Vinyl Flooring tops them all with 100% waterproof construction. Vinyl is amazing and I’m waiting for someone to actually install it outdoors, although our lawyers won’t let us suggest or warrant that 😉
We looked at your Cali Bamboo flooring at Lowes. Really like it. We have a tri-level home, and on the bottom floor, (master suite, subgrade level) is where we were thinking of installing the flooring. It has a concrete floor base. We recently experienced (after 30 years) a minor flooding issue in this level. We also have a waterbed in this room. So therefore a couple of questions….will this flooring withstand the weight of a waterbed,(and if so, is there any special install recommendations) then second question, do you recommend Cali Bamboo flooring for sub-grade level, then next question, can a heated flooring system be installed under your product?
The short answer to all these questions is yes, however, here are some things you should consider. Since you have a big heavy water bed, you’ll either want to glue down the flooring directly to the concrete subfloor or put down 2 layers of 3/4″ ply and nail down, neither of which play nice with radiant heat systems. If you are absolutely dead set on a radiant heat system you could float the floor just keep in mind the waterbed will inhibit natural expansion and contraction of the flooring, so you’ll want to make sure you give yourself extra expansion space around all fixed objects such as walls and door jambs. Also, be sure to seal the slab with Titebond 531+, it’s super easy to install, it rolls on like paint and dries in an hour.
One other thing that we are just a little curious about is humidity. On the west coast of course humidity is usually a small factor. On the east coast, humidity is a huge factor. i love the look and feel of the bamboo flooring, but just a little worried about putting it down and then having cupping or buckels. Any thoughts on this? Just want to make the right decision. When you speak of leaving extra room for expansion, how much extra are you suggesting?
One thing the salesperson at Lowes made sure we understood was to keep the flooring in the room where it is to be installed for at least 9-10 days prior to install to get it acclimated to the home. but since this is fall/winter, humidity is lower and summer the humidity factor increases, what will naturally occur is of course the expansion and contraction. You are the expert…..have you heard of more humidity/flooring issues on the east coast?
Valid concerns Becki,
Solid Bamboo or Eucalyptus should definitely be acclimated at a minimum of 10 days if you’re in a humid region. And yes, if you acclimate during the dry season, expect the floor to expand when things get humid. Vice versa if you install during the humid season then you can expect some shrinkage during the dry season. Over time, each season, the floors will move less and less. It’s tricky, but most experienced installers are familiar with this cycle and can gauge proper expansion space. As a rule of thumb we recommend 1/4″ around all fixed objects. While gaps can be unsightly, buckling can destroy a foor so always lean towards more expansion than less. Better yet, if the color you are interested in is available in our Engineered line, get that, engineered floors have a reputation of being a more stable flooring option in humidity extremes. Hope this helps.
I have a slab home. I want to put calibamboo. Do i need titebond 531?
I Sara,
Are you floating or glueing down? If floating, yes you will need to seal the slab with Titebond 531+. I’d also recommend an underlayment with moisture protection such as our EcoFelt or Premium+ Cork. If you’re planning on gluing down, you’ll use 531+ in conjunction with an approved adhesive such as Titebond 821, or you can use a 2-in-1 adhesive such as Bostik GreenForce Adhesive & Moisture Barrier and skip 531+.
Is the Titebond 531+ required for engineered bamboo or is it only required for solid bamboo?
While the EcoEngineered flooring does handle moisture better, it still requires a moisture barrier such as 531+.
I have a concrete subfloor. The Lowe’s in my area says to use the pergo gold underlayment. I want the glue down so that it will both sound better and if in the distant future needs to be refinished it’s possible. From what I’m reading Lowe’s should be using the 531. I think it sounds odd to glue to the pergo instead of the concrete. Can you tell me which method is better and if my warranty will be voided if they insist on using the pergo gold?
Hi Twyla,
Definitely use 531+ if you plan to glue down, you can’t glue to the Pergo underlayment. As long as you are installing a solid product (not engineered) you can refinish regardless of installation method. You are absolutely correct, glued down floors feel and sound more “solid”, however, floated floors allow the use of an underlayment and can be a bit more comfortable, but you have to live with that floated floor step sound which is actually quite minimal on concrete subfloors. Let me know if you have any more questions and don’t forget to acclimate!
Best,
Hi. We just bought a bunch of your fossilized bamboo T&G. For some reason the folks at Lowes said it was okay to install in our below grade concrete slab bedrooms. I see now, that you don’t recommend this. Why? Thanks.
Which Lowe’s store was it? I’ll send this info over to our Lowe’s department so they can make sure information like this is passing down correctly. We do not recommend installing solid bamboo or eucalyptus below grade, there’s just too much moisture down there and it can cause expansion which can lead to buckling. I’d go with cork flooring or if you gotta have bamboo, we also carry an engineered bamboo that you may be able to special order through your Lowe’s store, I’ll find out.
I guess the thing that confuses me is that it’s too much moisture for solid wood, but not too much for a particle board laminate even though particle board swells more than hardwood when it gets wet.
Out concern about cork is that it’s so soft it’ll mark up quickly.
You’re right Ben it doesn’t make sense, but for some reason, we have much less expansion with the cork than with the solid bamboo and eucalyptus products. Another thing to mention, we wrote this post prior to releasing our Hybrid Engineered line and so that will bring bamboo back as an option below grade. Thanks for the comment, we should probably revisit this post…
Best,
Walker
Should I use your fossilized strand woven bamboo on my heated concrete floors? Any special precautions? All floors are at or above grade. Thank you.
Hi Gerald,
You’re going to want to make sure you go with solid Fossilized (strand woven) bamboo.
Best,
I have a vinyl or linoleum glued down floor . It’s going to be a pain in the butt removing it all to the concrete subfloor . Wondering if bamboo floors can be installed on top of it , if I put down a moisture barrier or what would suggest I do ?
Hi Emmet,
I’m installing bamboo in my home next week and last weekend my wife and I decided to pull up our existing vinyl. It was on a second level and has a wood subfloor. We could have left it but decided to remove it to make sure there weren’t any surprises under there. Not going to lie, it was a lot of work, but now we have peace of mind. I posed your question to our resident installer and this is his take:
“You can install the Bamboo over vinyl as long as the subfloor is level and the bamboo is installed as a floating floor. The vinyl itself will act as a moisture barrier if it is all still intact and in good shape with no cracks or missing sections. To be safe they should put down a 6 mil plastic or put down a padding that has a built in moisture barrier like Pergo Gold.”
on grade concrete floor for a tri level home?? can you use the bamboo or do I need to look in a different direction??
Hi Tina,
On grade is all good for all of our flooring, just be sure to seal the slab with Titebond 531+ and acclimate the flooring on a pallet as close to the installation area as possible for a minimum of 5 days prior to installation.
Reading your expert reply to different people, just saved me a big problem. I’ve been told it would be OK for my walk out basement floor, two walls are under grade and two are outside…still, better to be safe than sorry. I will consider cork instead.
Thank you, Jean
Absolutely happy to help Jean!
Walker,
I am considering install a floating floor in a walk-out basement. Two of the rooms (full bath and laundry) will have vanities. Can a vanity be install on a floating floor or does it have to be glued down? Can the Java Fossilized Bamboo flooring be glued or floated?
Hi Jerry,
Since you said the “b” word, I’d recommend looking at our Hybrid Engineered line, it’s made for basements. As far as the vanity goes, you never want to put really heavy things on a floated floor since it restricts the floors ability to naturally expand and contract with the seasons so I would just glue down. All of our flooring can be glued down and it’s a common method for concrete subfloors, just make sure you seal the slab with a moisture barrier such as Titebond 531+ and use an adhesive that is designed to work with your moisture barrier for 531+ it’s Titebond 821.
Good day. My flooring project is over concrete in a walk-out (outside) room, added to my lower level tri-level home. The room is about 3 feet below grade on 2 sides, continuous with the first level of the tri-level. I have the feeling that this is considered below grade and the fossilized click bamboo I planned to use will not work. Please confirm. Thank you.
You’re instincts serve you well Stuart, I would definitely think twice about putting down any hardwood below grade especially in an outside room. Either of those scenarios are dicey and together they’re just trouble. Maybe look at vinyl?
Hello Walter,
So, it is not recommended to install bamboo floors on a basement. even when using a 3mm moisture barrier pad. the concret slab is probably 50 years old.
thanks.
Thanks
fernando
Fernando,
Solid bamboo no way but engineered bamboo is a possibility. We don’t currently offer engineered bamboo, but a little bird told me it’s in the works (3/1/16). Email me offline and I may be able to give you a sneak peek!
Will this allow you to install Cali Bamboo in a basement?
Hi Monroe,
Unfortunately no. We don’t recommend hardwood below grade but our cork flooring can go in basements.
Thanks!
Going over concrete slab above grade bamboo floating floor from calibamboo putting down 3mm pero gold first do I need title bond 531 first or paint slab thanks
As long as the concrete has cured for 60 days, above grade installs should be fine with just an underlayment with moisture protection. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to apply 531+ for added piece of mind though.
Hey, Walter–it’s PEACE of mind, not PIECE of mind. Unless you want to give someone a piece of your mind…like I just did. 🙂
You are correct sir, thanks Jake. I’ve been using the wrong word there since who knows, but nevermore!
does this replace a foam type of underlayment? I’ve always used a tape down underlayment in the past.
Phil,
Underlayment and moisture barriers are not exactly one in the same. An underlayment is typically installed between a subfloor and flooring to even our minor bumps in the subfloor, add a little cushioning and temperature or sound insulation to reduce “step noise”. Yes, some underlayments have “moisture protection” or a plastic film designed to be sealed with tape but over concrete you’ll want to use a true moisture barrier and 531+ is the only thing we recommend for this. Even better, seal the slab with 531+ and use an underlayment with moisture protection, that’s a bullet proof combination!
So say i put 531 and then underlaymen now the new floor is just floating , correct ? No point to glue to underlayment ? I plan to use distressed strand java bamboo on the ground floor into kitchen and bathroom as well . Subfloor is concrete currently have floating laminate and tile combination
Yes, you can use 531+ and an underlayment and float the floor over concrete. You could also skip the 531+ by using the CaliComplete Underlayment with the metalized seal tape.
Is it necessary to apply to floor of a 9 year old house ?
Absolutely Jimmy. If it’s concrete and you want to install any hardwood, you need to seal that slab.
Would you consider concrete and terrazzo flooring the same when deciding on moisture barriers??
If the terrazzo is over concrete then yes I would seal it with 531+ just like concrete.